Wednesday, Jimbo somehow convinced me to take another swing at the Mexican food that Bangkok has to offer. So Jimbo, Alaa and I headed over to Sukhumvit Soi 11 (the SPOT of bangkok - where BED is) to go to a restaurant called Charley Brown's. When I first walked in, I instantly noticed that one of the walls in the restaurant was covered with license plates all from Kansas. Then as I looked around, the whole restaurant was decked out in Kansas gear - from Jayhawk lamps to Wichita State Football championship signs. It was weird - felt like I was back at home. So I had to ask the waiter what the deal was. Apparently the original owner was from Kansas and wanted to decorate the restaurant with items from home. And then - the food was good! Real good. They had actual ground beef! That didn't taste like curry - quite the miracle! And to go with true Mexican food, Charley Brown's probably had the best Margarita in Bangkok. So good I had to have two. After eating, we made our usual trek to Wacky Wednesday's at The Londoner. And as usual, the cover band was playing. So I had to go say hi to them, and as I approach them, I hear the lead singer say "hey Andy - how are ya?" Don't know how in the world she knows my name - but that was pretty cool. We're regulars now. So we got our fill of the 2-4-1 at The Londoner, we wanted to try somewhere new in Bangkok - so we head off to RCA. RCA stands for Royal City Avenue - it's basically a street in Bangkok that is just full of bars and clubs. It's typically for thais - but there's a sprinkling of white people and English can sometimes be heard over the thumping techno and hip hop music. We went to Route 66, one of the many clubs on RCA. Route 66 is cool because it's themed like the Route 66 in USA. So it has four different rooms - appropriately named NORTH, EAST, SOUTH, and WEST. Each room plays a different style of music - from hip hop to techno to thai to a live band. Good time on Wednesday night.
Thursday, the trend of good food continued. Jimbo, the restaurant finder, found another place for us to go to Thursday night. After the good Mexican Wednesday night, I was eager to trust him tonight. We went to this place called "La Buca." It's supposed to be the best food in Thailand - and it definitely lived up to that. A little hole in the wall place, it was very difficult to find. We drove past it once, and would've walked past it again except we spotted the little lighted sign on the road. When we walked in, we were greeted by the owner and sous chef who was very hospitable the whole time we were in the restaurant. He checked on us quite frequently throughout our meal. We ordered an eggplant parmesan appetizer, I had the Salmon Ravioli with a lobster sauce for my entree, two glasses of wine, and the tiramisu for dessert. And halfway through our meal, the restaurant goes quiet. All of a sudden, we hear a soundtrack playing and the owner begins singing to our table and the restaurant. It was hilarious. I felt like I was in Italy for two hours. It was a great escape from the Thai food. And the best part - the Menu at La Buca changes every week - an excellent reason to return!
Now, on Friday, the true Tourist Experience began. After a late departure from my bed, I met Meris and Marney at Siam Square for Cultural Event #1. While reading the bible (aka LONELY PLANET), I read about the Snake Farm in Bangkok. When it was created, it was only one of two in the world. Sponsored by the Red Cross, the Snake Farm houses hundreds of species of snakes, collecting their venoms daily to create antivenoms. But the best part of the Snake Farm is that you can watch the venom extracting (what they call "milking") Monday through Friday - something we didn't learn until the third time we went. So we leisurely stroll from Siam Square to the Snake Farm, about a 30 minute walk. We arrive at 4:02 p.m. at the Snake Farm - it closes at 4:00 p.m. Great, so Cultural Event #1 was a bust. But the Cultural Events Weekend is not over. We decided to go to a Muay Thai Fight Friday night - Cultural Event #2. It was very cool - and very expensive. Costing around 1,000 baht, we got to see 8 fights. Each fight is 5 rounds of 3 minutes each with a 2 minute break in between each round. The main fight was round 6. And the international fight was round 7 - Korea vs. New Zealand. The girls were quite smitten during this round. The stadium was typical thai - it looked like it was built 100 years ago and was open for it's last day. The floors were paneled with wood with enough space in between for a small child or a thai woman to fall through the cracks. And it was mostly drunk thai men betting their family funds away. Women were few and far between at the fight - and most of them were probably girlfriends of the fighters. Most of the crowd near ring was white tourists. And thais (and us) filled the upper levels. It was a crazy, crazy time inside. Loud with everyone yelling and placing their bets. It was a very cool thing, though - something that seemed definitely Thai. Most of the fighters are 18 to 20. The fighters in the main fight were 20 and 24. We spoke with a Thai man sitting next to us and he told us that it is very different from US Boxing because boxers can fight til their 40 or even later - not muay thai, they usually fight til their 26 then they're done. And the fighting is very different - it's mostly knees to the kidneys. Not many punches are thrown. There were some pretty nice kicks to the head too. Some of the fighters were very young though. By the 8th fight, we were Muay Thai'd out - but that was the "children's round." The boys fighting couldn't have been older than 10. It was crazy to see that. After Muay Thai, we headed across the street to the San Luam Night Bazaar to get some food then we headed to rest up for another day of cultural events.
Saturday, we woke up early around 4:45 a.m. to head to the Floating Markets. By 5 a.m. we were on the road. JJ, a thai chick that works in the Gym/Spa downstairs planned the trip for us. (She's quite the resource to have - she loves to party and she's very nice. She's actually planning our trip this weekend for us too.) We drove two hours northwest to the floating markets. By 7:30 a.m., we were in our boat, ready for Cultural Event #3. Now, I think this is one event we weren't touristy enough for. Everything they were selling was the same stuff sold everywhere else - which is nothing we want to buy now because it'll be the same stuff we can find in 5 months. But it was a cool experience. We were basically only in it for the food. We had some very good Mango and Sticky Rice (another staple of my diet in Thailand). For an hour, we made our way through little narrow canals on a boat with women rowing past us selling everything - from food to flowers to tourist crap. But there's also shops along the canal selling stuff. They have these long sticks and we would always see a woman with a stick coming towards our boat that they'll use to try and pull your boat over to their shop - we weren't havin it. We made a pact that it we were going to buy something, it better damn well be floating - since it's a floating market! After we made it through the canals, we went on a bit of a tour of the rest of the river. We had a close encounter with some of the marine life the floating markets has to offer.
Close encounter #1: Giant fish that were jumping out of the water. This might be a slight exaggeration from my lack of sleep and lack of food - but it sucked. The driver of the boat kept throwing feed right next to our boat so all the fish were jumping all over each other to get the food - splashing wonderfully clean river water over us. It was great. I still hope I don't catch some Thai disease from that water.
Close Encounter #2: a Kimodo Dragon. Wait, no, let me correct this. TWO kimodo dragons. yes, kimodo dragons - the most poisonous creature on earth - was swimming less than 4 feet away from our boat. Granted, one was dead and floating - but i'm sure it's still poisonous. But the second one was still alive and swimming in the river. Somewhere though, our screams got lost in translation and the driver though that we liked kimodo dragons (?) so he drove closer to the thing. cool, thanks driver.
After the floating markets, we wanted a nice relaxing tour - on the back of an elephant! But, alas, we got ahead of ourselves. When we got to the elephant tours, our wallets did not agree. It was too expensive for our student bank accounts, so we were cheap - we snapped a picture and bailed. Haha. Then we had our driver take us to Cultural Event #4 - King Rama II's summer palace near the floating markets. This was very cool - and only 20 baht. It was located on a sprawling and very well manicured estate. Everything was perfectly trimmed and all of the colors were beautiful. All of the buildings were painted a red wine color and constructed in the elevated fasion similar to Rama VII's palace that we saw in Hua Hin. And it was nice to see blue skies, a rarity of Bangkok.
Following Cultural Event #4, we wanted to face our fears again - so we had our drive take us to the Snake Farm for round two. But we arrived at 1:30 p.m., and it closes at 2. And there weren't any milkings. So we left - snakeless, broken hearted and ready for another Cultural Event. After a wonderful lunch at Hong Kong Noodles in Siam Square, Charity and I headed off for Cultural Event #5, Jim Thompson's House. Now here's a bit of history for you, Jim Thompson was an American architect from NYC who was sent over to Thailand before WWII to integrate into Thai culture (as a spy, it's rumored). What made Jim Thompson famous was his love of Thai silks. He's the man that made Thai silks popular and world renowned. On one of his trips back to NYC, he brought some silks back with him for the editor at the time of Vogue Magazine. She loved them and that's history, my friend. Jim Thompson silks is still in operation in Thailand. However, it's really overpriced since it's known for it's hand-done screenprinting. He loved Thai culture so much that he built a house here. His house was constructed in a blend of thai and western styles. It's really cool and very well preserved. But the mystery of Jim Thompson is around his disappearance. When he was 62, he went on a trip to Malaysia and disappeared. Nothing has been seen or heard of him since then. But now his house is a National Museum. It's really cool and really touristy. We had a nice 45 minute tour of the property for only 50 baht.
But after all that culture, we needed to let loose. So saturday night, we hit the town. We decided to go back to RCA to a new club, but the Canadians forgot their ID's (yes, they ID in Thailand - yes, even for white people - yes, even for girls) so the only place where we could pay off the doormen was at Route 66. We all had a good time on Saturday night.
Sunday, we woke up at 10 a.m. to return to the Snake Farm. I'll just cut to the chase - I still haven't seen any snakes. When we were there on Saturday, we didn't look at the sign that said "No Milkings on Weekends." And when we got there on Sunday, we were pretty pissed. But we cut our losses, had a hamburger and went home. I don't know what it is about the snake farm. I don't even like snakes at all, I've failed three times at trying to go, and I STILL want to go back and see the milking.
Last night (monday), we had probably one of the best meals since we've been here. A free magazine that they have near the pool just made a list of the "100 places to eat in Bangkok before you die." I don't know if they expect you to die of cholesterol but we want to go to all 100 places. Last night, we picked this place named Chote Chitr. This place was tiny - no more than five tables in the place. And before you walk in the door, you're greeted by the owners dogs - it was a nice change of pace to see clean, well groomed pets, not strays. They even had to take one of the dogs off our table to seat us! When you walk in, the walls are covered with local and international magazine reviews - but they were lacking a Food & Wine review. Maybe I can take care of that one. As soon as we were seated, the owner came up to our table and basically decided what we were going to eat for us. As soon as she did that, I knew everything that came out of the kitchen was going to be delicious! Everything was served family style.
Here's what we got:
- crispy fried noodles (3 servings)
- crispy white fish with green mango salad on top
- yellow prawn curry
- red duck curry
- banana flower salad with shrimp (very very very very spicy - my mouth is still on fire)
- eggplant salad
- fried chicken with cashew nuts (another staple of my diet in Thailand)
- grilled veggies
- rice (of course)
Everything was great. And cheap. The whole bill was 45 dollars - split by seven people, I think we each paid 250 baht, we decided to leave them a nice tip. One of the table conversations last night was how I miss dessert menus and dessert in Thailand. Everyone agreed. But after dinner, we all learned otherwise. Who needs a dessert menu in Thailand when you've got street food? Right outside the restaurant, we got this awesome dessert - it was grilled french bread with butter, then grilled bananas, then chocolate and coconut butter on top. This dessert was soooooo good - and 15 baht. I think we ordered 4 or 5 of these. But we were so funny because we would eat one, say how good it was, then decide to get one more. Nobody wanted to eat a whole one so we would just share one but we probably each ate a whole one. Awesome.
So, for this weekend we are headed down to Koh Samui. Meris and JJ (the chick that work downstairs) are planning the trip for us. We are going to leave Thursday night in a private taxi, make the six hour drive to the port over night, then catch the ferry to Koh Samui. Then JJ's friend is going to meet us and take us to the guesthouse and sort of be our host for the weekend. I'm telling you, JJ knows everyone in Thailand - when we went to Escudo we didn't have to pay cover charge because she knew the DJ, she used to date a famous basketball player in Thailand - so naturally she would know someone on a remote island 6 hours away. We are going to log some beach hours this weekend and relax as much as we can. Then we are going to head back Sunday night just in time for school on Monday. I'm dying to get in the water - my first priority is to find some diving in the islands, just so that if it's not on this trip, it can be on the next.
Well I hope all's well where you're reading this from. Leave me some comments and let me know whats shakin around the rest of the world. Especially if any of my USC peeps are reading this - what's the deal with the riots?? I feel like i'm only getting 25% of the story. What's the deal??
(world) peace